Well, the jury is in... I love the Clark Custom Trigger.  I knew before it came in that a little work would have to be done on it to make it fit.  Below is the work that I did to make it have an 1/8 inch total travel. (the distance between the 2 red lines in the picture) 

I had to do 4 things to make the trigger work as designed.  First was widen slightly the pin hole to allow free but not wobbly movement.  Next was to slightly widen the outer hole that the disconnector assembly sits in (top horizontal hole). Next was to shorten the trigger to provide enough trigger pre-travel to allow the Sear to reset.  Last was to adjust the over travel screw to stop just after the sear releases the hammer. 

Instructions

Please Read Disclaimer

I used a dremel with 3 different bits plus some 400 grit sand paper for this project.  I know why gunsmiths charge a lot for this stuff, it takes a bit of work to get this done.  If you plan on changing your sear I would install the new sear first, then perform the trigger job.

1. Field strip your gun. (Instructions)

2. Disassemble the trigger assembly. (Instructions)

3. Remove the over travel screw out of the new trigger.

4. Check that the trigger pivot pin fits into the bottom horizontal hole on the new trigger.  If the pin fits, skip to step 7.  If it does not you will need to widen it.

5. Using the routing bit (above picture, the bit on the right) widen the hole.  Check every 10 or so seconds to see if it is wide enough.  Be careful not to tilt the bit and wallow out the hole but to keep it straight and widen it. 

6. You are done with this when the trigger will spin around the center of the pin freely (gun oil will help test the fit).

7. Test that the trigger's top horizontal hole will fit onto the end of the disconnector assembly and can pivot smoothly from full trigger over travel (trigger hits the disconnector assembly) to about 20 degrees pre-travel.  If it is smooth already go to step 9.  If it does not you will need to widen it.

8. The hole goes from wide to narrow and it's the top wide part that needs to be widened.  Keep repeating step 7 and 8 until it is smooth.

9. Insert trigger into grip with all parts in place except the over travel screw.

10. To check pre-travel pull the trigger slowly.  You should see the trigger and disconnector assembly move but not move the sear when you start to pull the trigger.  You can also feel the difference in the trigger pull, pre-travel is only the trigger spring weight and sear movement will increase the resistance on the trigger from the sear spring.  If the sear moves no matter what and/or you don't feel 2 different pull weights, remove the trigger from the grip. 

11. Grind, file, or sand off the bottom of the trigger where it touches the trigger guard about 1/32 inch.  Reinsert trigger into grip and repeat step 10 until you feel 2 different pull weights.

12. Once you feel the first lighter pull weight, the pre-travel distance you have to pull is up to how much more you want to remove from the end of the trigger.  On my trigger the pre-travel cleared at 1/32in grind but I removed another 1/16in more to keep from having such a hair trigger.

13.  Once pre-travel is adjusted, remove the trigger and apply cold blue solution to the newly sanded/filed parts. Then insert the over travel screw and reinstall trigger and trigger shield (if you made one).

14.  To keep from dry firing my gun too many times I roughly adjusted the over travel by pushing on the hammer and pulling the trigger at the same time.  Adjust the over travel screw to touch the frame just after the hammer is released.

15.  Assemble gun.